Skin Care: The Natural Way

What is healthy skin? How is it determined? How do we control the effects of aging in a society that is obsessed with youth? Do we look at a person and assume because they appear to have a smooth clear complexion that their skin is healthy or is it the air brushed look that we see on the latest fashion magazine?

The skin is the largest organ of the body. It covers 5 - 6 square meters in the average adult and weighs 3.5 - 4.5 kg. It serves as a protective layer against germs and harmful bacteria, acts as a sensor - pain, touch, temperature, pressure, is capable of absorbing small amounts of oily substances, sebaceous glands secrete a natural oil called sebum while other glands secrete water, toxins and other waste products through perspiring and it regulates body temperature.

I have news for you - a baby has healthy skin, after that it starts to age.

What causes premature aging? Two aspects, one internal and the other external, cause aging. The internal aspect is determined by genetics, which we have little control over. By 30 - 40 years of age distinct evidence may start to show up by the skin beginning to sag, or fold in on itself causing wrinkles. This is due to the loss of elasticity or collagen production. Improved diet and exercise may slow it down partly. The external aspect of aging is caused by many culprits such as sun exposure, stress levels, pollutants and chemicals (and in daily use products), climate, environment, drugs (prescription and others), smoking, poor nutrition, dieting, and traumas. This is the aspect we have the most control over.

The word "cosmetics" has it roots back in the time of the Greek mathematician Pythagoras around 550 BC. The word referred to the order of the universe as it was derived from the word "cosmos" and in its simple original meaning represented the glorification or adornment of man or woman. A person who was physically attractive was said to be in harmony with nature. Galen, a Greek physician who lived from 130 - 200 AD invented cold cream by mixing olive oil, beeswax and water together. He changed the cosmetic industry forever because previously it was thought that oil and water did not mix. Today the cosmetic industry seems to have forgotten its primitive roots and origins. With modern science and its technology the cosmetic industry is very far removed from nature. This is due to the easy availability of petroleum byproducts and their ability to be patented. These products are less effective in skin care and dehydrate your skin plus many synthetic anti-aging products actually contribute to the aging process of the skin itself. In addition there are harmful effects from synthetic dyes and preservatives.

By switching to natural skin care products premature aging can be reduced and the effects of these synthetics reversed.

Creams and lotions are made of oil (fat), pure distilled water and an emulsifier, which is a vegetable wax that binds the oil and water together. Oil will go rancid unless an antioxidant is added to it. Some oils are very stable and resist rancidity. Vitamin E contains tocopherol, which acts as an antioxidant and is added to the oil. When water sits around bacteria and mold sets in - therefore a preservative is required. It is required by law that a proven commercially effective preservative system must be used if someone sells skin care products to the public. I use Cosmocil, a scientifically proven amino acid based preservative that does not contain any parabens or formaldehyde, inhibits microbial growth, is non-toxic, non-irritating, not heat activated and only 0.5% is required in most formulations. Some of you may have noticed that grapefruit seed extract has been used as a preservative however this ingredient is not proven to be effective, is cut with chemicals and if pure has no antioxidant ability.

All oils have an Oxidative Stability Index (OSI) factor, which is a rating for shelf life. This is a measure to determine how long each oil will last before oxidation or rancidity will occur. Different oils have different OSI ratings, from as low as 5 hours to as higher as 1 - 3 years. The more stable oils have a longer shelf life. When more ingredients are used in combination in a product the shelf life is reduced. Questions you need to ask yourself are - How long do the products you own last? Does forever come to mind? A natural cream or lotion will last between 6 - 12 months so what does that tell you about commercially available products?

Natural skin care products use carrier oils - cold pressed vegetable oils, which are absorbed, easily into the skin. Some examples are almond, apricot, avocado, calendula, evening primrose, hazelnut, sesame, and coconut. The oils themselves have different therapeutic properties. They balance hormones, are penetrating, reduce inflammation, are astringent, regenerate skin cells and are helpful and effective for skin damage such as scars, wounds, burns, chapped, cracked skin, and stimulate circulation. They are also good for various skin types including hormonally and stress reactive, environmentally sensitive and overexposed skin, effective for treating skin disorders and reduce muscle aches and pains plus they contain vitamins.

So far we have oil, an antioxidant, distilled water (free of bacteria and inorganic substances), a preservative and an emulsifier. What other ingredients do these natural skin care products contain?

The water phase can contain floral waters (which are a by product of the distillation of aromatherapy essential oils - see below), witch hazel, aloe vera gel, apple cider vinegar, lecithin, herbal infusions (made from plants and have medicinal qualities), and glycerine.

Other ingredients include aromatherapy oils used for their medicinal and aromatic properties, clays - which are absorbent, and used to draw out toxins and impurities from the skin, beeswax (used in lip balms, ointments and barrier creams), and an emollient (softens and sooths inflammation) such as shea or mango butter which prevents chaffing or irritation and leaves the skin feeling silky and smooth. Various food ingredients such as avocado, cucumber, carrot, nuts, whole milk, honey, sea salt and Epsom salts can be used in masks, poultices and scrubs.

As a general rule, natural skin care products either get their healing properties from aromatherapy oils or herbs.

Aromatherapy or essential oils (e.o.'s) come from plants, and have properties related to skin care. They are analgesic, relieve pain, antibiotic, anti-inflammatory, relieve itching, are astringent - causing constriction of tissues locally, stimulate the production of new cells, relieve congestion, prevent odours, cleansing, emollient, assist in healing wounds, burns and infection, stimulate circulation, are warming, calming, antiseptic, antiviral, and insecticide (such as tea tree for lice). All e.o.'s are completely natural, and work with the body's natural healing process. They have been proven to help eliminate harmful bacteria, dead skin cells, unblock clogged pores and dissolve excessive sebum produced by the body's sebaceous glands which in turn allows the skin to build new cells easily and effectively.

A humectant is a substance used in cosmetics to retain or draw moisture. Examples are glycerine and sorbitol. They are good for dry and mature skin.

Floral waters are mildly antiseptic, astringent, lightly fragrant, rejuvenating and gentle on the skin. Some common ones are orange blossom (used for aging skin and not to be confused with citrus oils), rose, and lavender. They can be applied directly to the skin as a toner or body splash. Witch hazel water helps to cleanse blocked pores has an astringent effect and reduces inflammation. It is made from the leaves, flowers and bark of the hamamelis tree. Aloe vera gel is used in first aid as it helps heal wounds and other damaged skin plus it can be used in a facial mask. Apple cider vinegar helps to balance the pH level of the skin. Lecithin nourishes the skin and rebuilds skin tissue. Herbs have many of the same properties as aromatherapy oils.

Some natural colouring agents are chlorophyll - green; carrot tissue or seed oil - orange, yellow; alkanet root made from the extraction of the herblike tree root - red, pink; St. John's Wort oil is red; calendula oil is orangey yellow.

Citrus e.o.'s such as orange, lemon and lime are good for young skin. Floral e.o.'s such as rose and geranium are good for aging skin.

A cream is used on the face, neck, elbows, hands and feet, because they are exposed more and need more moisturizing. The face, hands, and neck are most vulnerable to high stress and as such need to be taken care of. A lotion is used on the rest of the body.

When buying natural skin care products look for ones that are made from natural ingredients not synthetics, contain no harmful chemicals or petroleum byproducts, use vegetable oils instead of mineral oil or lanolin (these do not penetrate the skin and can cause allergic reactions), do not contain synthetic perfumes/fragrances, use natural vs. artificial colouring agents (all FD&C or D&C are made from coal tar which contains toxins) and are labelled with all ingredients.

As of November 16, 2006, all ingredients must be listed on the label in descending order according to the weight in the formula. This enables consumers to be better informed about their purchases and be able to choose what they put on their hair, skin and nails. You can look up the individual ingredients in a book entitled A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients by Ruth Winter. I have found this book to be most helpful. Many products actually do the opposite of what they claim which in turn gets you to buy more of them.

At the beginning when you switch over to natural skin care products you will find that you use more than you usually do. This is because your body needs to adjust to getting what it needs after being starved for years by products that contained ingredients that blocked absorption.

Now that you know what ingredients you are looking for and how to take care of your skin, you can look forward to many more years of healthy, vibrant skin!

Written by Stephanie Brander, R.N.H.P., C.A.H.T., A.P.P.